Introduction - BOUSS-2D0009
Introduction (cont.) - BOUSS-2D0010
Purpose - BOUSS-2D0011
Theoretical Background
Governing Equations - BOUSS-2D0013
Linear Dispersion Properties
Figure 1. Comparison of normalized phase speeds for different values of α
Simulation of Wave Breaking
Figure 2. Comparison of quadratic transfer function for Boussinesq and Stokes theories
Bottom Friction
Bottom Friction (cont.)
Numerical Solution
Finite Difference Scheme
Finite Difference Scheme (cont.)
Boundary Conditions - BOUSS-2D0023
Solid wall boundaries
Irregular Unidirectional Waves
Irregular Unidirectional Waves (cont.)
Irregular Multidirectional Waves
Figure 4. Cosine-power spreading function for different values of the spreading index s
Irregular Multidirectional Waves (cont.)
Internal wave generation boundaries
Damping regions
Figure 5. Variation of reflection coefficient with damping coefficient
Simulation of Wave Runup
Subgrid Turbulence
Setting Up and Running BOUSS-2D
Collection of Bathymetric and Wave Climate Data
Figure 6. Definition sketch for computational grid
Preparation of Damping Grid File
Creation of Simulation Parameter File
Wave Synthesis Options
Significant Wave Height
Multidirectional Waves
Figure 7. Sketch showing spatially homogenous region for multidirectional waves
2-D Spatial Output
Time Series Output
A sample output of the simulation parameter file
Running BOUSS-2D
Time Series Data Analysis
Model Validation
Figure 8. 3-D view of instantaneous water-surface elevation for regular waves propagating through a breakwater gap (T = 7 s, h = 10 m, B/L = 2)
Figure 10. 3-D view of instantaneous water-surface elevation for multidirectional waves propagating through a breakwater gap (Tp = 7 s, σθ = 20 , h = 10 m, B/Lp = 2)
Multidirectional Wave Propagation over a Shoal
Figure 12. Plan view of bathymetry and layout for Vincent-Briggs shoal experiments
Figure 13. 3-D view of multidirectional wave propagation over a shoal for test case N1 (Hmo = 0.0775 m, Tp= 1.3 s, σθ = 10 deg)
Figure 15. Normalized wave height distribution along transect 3 for test case N1
Figure 17. Normalized wave height distribution along transect 3 for test case B1
Figure 19. Measured and predicted wave spectra at Gauge 1 for bimodal sea state shoaling on a constant slope beach
Figure 20. Measured and predicted wave spectra at Gauge 4 for bimodal sea state shoaling on a constant slope beach
Figure 22. Measured and predicted wave spectra at Gauge 9 for bimodal sea state shoaling on a constant slope beach
Figure 23. Plan view of bathymetry for rip current experiments
Figure 25. Time-averaged rip current pattern at t = 200 s
Figure 26. Bathymetry of idealized inlet for wave-current interaction study
Figure 27. Predicted current field for U = 0.24 m/s
Figure 29. Predicted wave height distribution near inlet for test case with currents (Hmo = 0.055m, Tp = 1.4 s, U = 0.24 m/s)
Figure 30. Ponce de Leon Inlet model bathymetry
Figure 32. 2-D map of wave height distribution predicted by Boussinesq model (Hmo = 0.95 m, Tp = 10 s, σθ = 20 deg)
Figure 34. Measured and predicted wave height distribution along the nearshore gauge array (Hmo = 0.95 m, Tp = 10 s, σθ = 20 deg)
Figure 35. 3-D view of Barbers Point Harbor model bathymetry
Wave Disturbance in Barbers Point Harbor, Hawaii
Figure 37. CGWAVE and BOUSS-2D model predictions of the wave height amplification factor at Gauge 5
Figure 39. Boussinesq model prediction of the time-history of the water-surface elevation at Gauge 5 for a natural harbor period (T = 60 s)
Figure 41. 3-D view of irregular wave propagation into Barbers Point Harbor
Figure 42. Predicted wave spectra at the outside Gauges 1 and 2 for an irregular sea state (Hmo = 3 m, Tp = 12 s)
Figure 43. Predicted wave spectra at gauges inside harbor basin (Gauges 3-6) for an irregular sea state (Hmo = 3 m, Tp = 12 s)
References - BOUSS-2D0075
References (cont.) - BOUSS-2D0076
References (cont.) - BOUSS-2D0077
References (cont.) - BOUSS-2D0078
Appendix A. Fourier Series Solutions of Boussinesq Equations
Appendix A. Fourier Series Solutions of Boussinesq Equations (cont.)
Appendix B. Description of Ocean Wave Spectra
JONSWAP Spectrum
Figure B1. Comparison of Bretschneider and JONSWAP (γ = 3.3) spectra for a sea state with Hmo = 1 m, Tp = 10 s
Ochi-Hubble Spectrum
Appendix C. Directional Wave Spreading Functions
Wrapped-Normal Spreading Function
Appendix D. BOUSS-2D File Formats
Time Series File Format (.ts1)
Time Series File Format (.ts1) (cont.)
Appendix E. Utility Programs
MAP_POROSITY
REPORT DOCUMENTATION PAGE - BOUSS-2D0092
BOUSS-2D
Introduction (cont.) - BOUSS-2D0010
Purpose - BOUSS-2D0011
Theoretical Background
Governing Equations - BOUSS-2D0013
Linear Dispersion Properties
Figure 1. Comparison of normalized phase speeds for different values of α
Simulation of Wave Breaking
Figure 2. Comparison of quadratic transfer function for Boussinesq and Stokes theories
Bottom Friction
Bottom Friction (cont.)
Numerical Solution
Finite Difference Scheme
Finite Difference Scheme (cont.)
Boundary Conditions - BOUSS-2D0023
Solid wall boundaries
Irregular Unidirectional Waves
Irregular Unidirectional Waves (cont.)
Irregular Multidirectional Waves
Figure 4. Cosine-power spreading function for different values of the spreading index s
Irregular Multidirectional Waves (cont.)
Internal wave generation boundaries
Damping regions
Figure 5. Variation of reflection coefficient with damping coefficient
Simulation of Wave Runup
Subgrid Turbulence
Setting Up and Running BOUSS-2D
Collection of Bathymetric and Wave Climate Data
Figure 6. Definition sketch for computational grid
Preparation of Damping Grid File
Creation of Simulation Parameter File
Wave Synthesis Options
Significant Wave Height
Multidirectional Waves
Figure 7. Sketch showing spatially homogenous region for multidirectional waves
2-D Spatial Output
Time Series Output
A sample output of the simulation parameter file
Running BOUSS-2D
Time Series Data Analysis
Model Validation
Figure 8. 3-D view of instantaneous water-surface elevation for regular waves propagating through a breakwater gap (T = 7 s, h = 10 m, B/L = 2)
Figure 10. 3-D view of instantaneous water-surface elevation for multidirectional waves propagating through a breakwater gap (Tp = 7 s, σθ = 20 , h = 10 m, B/Lp = 2)
Multidirectional Wave Propagation over a Shoal
Figure 12. Plan view of bathymetry and layout for Vincent-Briggs shoal experiments
Figure 13. 3-D view of multidirectional wave propagation over a shoal for test case N1 (Hmo = 0.0775 m, Tp= 1.3 s, σθ = 10 deg)
Figure 15. Normalized wave height distribution along transect 3 for test case N1
Figure 17. Normalized wave height distribution along transect 3 for test case B1
Figure 19. Measured and predicted wave spectra at Gauge 1 for bimodal sea state shoaling on a constant slope beach
Figure 20. Measured and predicted wave spectra at Gauge 4 for bimodal sea state shoaling on a constant slope beach
Figure 22. Measured and predicted wave spectra at Gauge 9 for bimodal sea state shoaling on a constant slope beach
Figure 23. Plan view of bathymetry for rip current experiments
Figure 25. Time-averaged rip current pattern at t = 200 s
Figure 26. Bathymetry of idealized inlet for wave-current interaction study
Figure 27. Predicted current field for U = 0.24 m/s
Figure 29. Predicted wave height distribution near inlet for test case with currents (Hmo = 0.055m, Tp = 1.4 s, U = 0.24 m/s)
Figure 30. Ponce de Leon Inlet model bathymetry
Figure 32. 2-D map of wave height distribution predicted by Boussinesq model (Hmo = 0.95 m, Tp = 10 s, σθ = 20 deg)
Figure 34. Measured and predicted wave height distribution along the nearshore gauge array (Hmo = 0.95 m, Tp = 10 s, σθ = 20 deg)
Figure 35. 3-D view of Barbers Point Harbor model bathymetry
Wave Disturbance in Barbers Point Harbor, Hawaii
Figure 37. CGWAVE and BOUSS-2D model predictions of the wave height amplification factor at Gauge 5
Figure 39. Boussinesq model prediction of the time-history of the water-surface elevation at Gauge 5 for a natural harbor period (T = 60 s)
Figure 41. 3-D view of irregular wave propagation into Barbers Point Harbor
Figure 42. Predicted wave spectra at the outside Gauges 1 and 2 for an irregular sea state (Hmo = 3 m, Tp = 12 s)
Figure 43. Predicted wave spectra at gauges inside harbor basin (Gauges 3-6) for an irregular sea state (Hmo = 3 m, Tp = 12 s)
References - BOUSS-2D0075
References (cont.) - BOUSS-2D0076
References (cont.) - BOUSS-2D0077
References (cont.) - BOUSS-2D0078
Appendix A. Fourier Series Solutions of Boussinesq Equations
Appendix A. Fourier Series Solutions of Boussinesq Equations (cont.)
Appendix B. Description of Ocean Wave Spectra
JONSWAP Spectrum
Figure B1. Comparison of Bretschneider and JONSWAP (γ = 3.3) spectra for a sea state with Hmo = 1 m, Tp = 10 s
Ochi-Hubble Spectrum
Appendix C. Directional Wave Spreading Functions
Wrapped-Normal Spreading Function
Appendix D. BOUSS-2D File Formats
Time Series File Format (.ts1)
Time Series File Format (.ts1) (cont.)
Appendix E. Utility Programs
MAP_POROSITY
REPORT DOCUMENTATION PAGE - BOUSS-2D0092
BOUSS-2D
