Introduction (cont.) - BOUSS-2D0010

Purpose - BOUSS-2D0011

Theoretical Background

Governing Equations - BOUSS-2D0013

Linear Dispersion Properties

Figure 1. Comparison of normalized phase speeds for different values of α

Simulation of Wave Breaking

Figure 2. Comparison of quadratic transfer function for Boussinesq and Stokes theories

Bottom Friction

Bottom Friction (cont.)

Numerical Solution

Finite Difference Scheme

Finite Difference Scheme (cont.)

Boundary Conditions - BOUSS-2D0023

Solid wall boundaries

Irregular Unidirectional Waves

Irregular Unidirectional Waves (cont.)

Irregular Multidirectional Waves

Figure 4. Cosine-power spreading function for different values of the spreading index s

Irregular Multidirectional Waves (cont.)

Internal wave generation boundaries

Damping regions

Figure 5. Variation of reflection coefficient with damping coefficient

Simulation of Wave Runup

Subgrid Turbulence

Setting Up and Running BOUSS-2D

Collection of Bathymetric and Wave Climate Data

Figure 6. Definition sketch for computational grid

Preparation of Damping Grid File

Creation of Simulation Parameter File

Wave Synthesis Options

Significant Wave Height

Multidirectional Waves

Figure 7. Sketch showing spatially homogenous region for multidirectional waves

2-D Spatial Output

Time Series Output

A sample output of the simulation parameter file

Running BOUSS-2D

Time Series Data Analysis

Model Validation

Figure 8. 3-D view of instantaneous water-surface elevation for regular waves propagating through a breakwater gap (T = 7 s, h = 10 m, B/L = 2)

Figure 10. 3-D view of instantaneous water-surface elevation for multidirectional waves propagating through a breakwater gap (Tp = 7 s, σθ = 20 , h = 10 m, B/Lp = 2)

Multidirectional Wave Propagation over a Shoal

Figure 12. Plan view of bathymetry and layout for Vincent-Briggs shoal experiments

Figure 13. 3-D view of multidirectional wave propagation over a shoal for test case N1 (Hmo = 0.0775 m, Tp= 1.3 s, σθ = 10 deg)

Figure 15. Normalized wave height distribution along transect 3 for test case N1

Figure 17. Normalized wave height distribution along transect 3 for test case B1

Figure 19. Measured and predicted wave spectra at Gauge 1 for bimodal sea state shoaling on a constant slope beach

Figure 20. Measured and predicted wave spectra at Gauge 4 for bimodal sea state shoaling on a constant slope beach

Figure 22. Measured and predicted wave spectra at Gauge 9 for bimodal sea state shoaling on a constant slope beach

Figure 23. Plan view of bathymetry for rip current experiments

Figure 25. Time-averaged rip current pattern at t = 200 s

Figure 26. Bathymetry of idealized inlet for wave-current interaction study

Figure 27. Predicted current field for U = 0.24 m/s

Figure 29. Predicted wave height distribution near inlet for test case with currents (Hmo = 0.055m, Tp = 1.4 s, U = 0.24 m/s)

Figure 30. Ponce de Leon Inlet model bathymetry

Figure 32. 2-D map of wave height distribution predicted by Boussinesq model (Hmo = 0.95 m, Tp = 10 s, σθ = 20 deg)

Figure 34. Measured and predicted wave height distribution along the nearshore gauge array (Hmo = 0.95 m, Tp = 10 s, σθ = 20 deg)

Figure 35. 3-D view of Barbers Point Harbor model bathymetry

Wave Disturbance in Barbers Point Harbor, Hawaii

Figure 37. CGWAVE and BOUSS-2D model predictions of the wave height amplification factor at Gauge 5

Figure 39. Boussinesq model prediction of the time-history of the water-surface elevation at Gauge 5 for a natural harbor period (T = 60 s)

Figure 41. 3-D view of irregular wave propagation into Barbers Point Harbor

Figure 42. Predicted wave spectra at the outside Gauges 1 and 2 for an irregular sea state (Hmo = 3 m, Tp = 12 s)

Figure 43. Predicted wave spectra at gauges inside harbor basin (Gauges 3-6) for an irregular sea state (Hmo = 3 m, Tp = 12 s)

References - BOUSS-2D0075

References (cont.) - BOUSS-2D0076

References (cont.) - BOUSS-2D0077

References (cont.) - BOUSS-2D0078

Appendix A. Fourier Series Solutions of Boussinesq Equations

Appendix A. Fourier Series Solutions of Boussinesq Equations (cont.)

Appendix B. Description of Ocean Wave Spectra

JONSWAP Spectrum

Figure B1. Comparison of Bretschneider and JONSWAP (γ = 3.3) spectra for a sea state with Hmo = 1 m, Tp = 10 s

Ochi-Hubble Spectrum

Appendix C. Directional Wave Spreading Functions

Wrapped-Normal Spreading Function

Appendix D. BOUSS-2D File Formats

Time Series File Format (.ts1)

Time Series File Format (.ts1) (cont.)

Appendix E. Utility Programs

MAP_POROSITY

REPORT DOCUMENTATION PAGE - BOUSS-2D0092

BOUSS-2D