2
1.5
JONSWAP
1
0.5
Bretschneider
0
0
0.1
0.2
0.3
0.4
0.5
Figure B1. Comparison of Bretschneider and JONSWAP (γ = 3.3) spectra for a
sea state with Hmo = 1 m, Tp = 10 s
5 f -4
α g2
exp - γa ⋅ λ( f , h)
S( f ) =
(B8)
4 fp
(2π) f
45
where λ(f,h) is a function that expresses the effect of finite water depth and is
given by:
-1
2ω2 R(ωh )
λ( f , h) = [R(ωh )]
-2
1 +
h
(B9)
sinh[2ω2 R(ωh )] 2ω2 R(ωh )
h
h
The frequency factor ωh = 2πf (h / g ) and R(ωh) is obtained from the iterative
R(ωh ) tanh ω2 R(ωh ) = 1
(B10)
h
B3
Appendix B Description of Ocean Wave Spectra