1.4
Spilling
1.2
Plunging
1.0
0.8
0.6
0.4
0.2
0.0
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
16
18
20
Cross-Shore Location (m)
Fig 3. Equilibrium profiles formed by spilling and plunging breakers
30
Spilling
25
Plunging
20
15
10
5
0
-5
-10
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
16
18
20
Cross-Shore Location (m)
Fig. 4 Distribution of longshore currents produced by spilling and plunging waves
Total transport for spilling waves is approximately a third less than that of the plunging
waves. Throughout the rest of the surf zone, sediment flux is similar between the cases.
It is not surprising that the plunging waves show greater transport over spilling waves
near the breaker line. Turbulence associated with spilling breakers remains close to the
Smith and Wang
1223
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