the outer throat gauge, the mean direction shifts by 25 deg, again because of
Figure 15 shows a contour plot of the wave heights over the entire STWAVE
domain. The gray shade contours represent wave height, and the background line
contours represent the bathymetry. For these incident wave conditions, the
wave-height variations closely follow the depth contours, because depth-limited
breaking is the dominant process and thus the wave height contours mimic the
depth contours. For cases with less extreme incident wave heights, the maximum
wave heights are found on the ebb shoal, where energy is focused by refraction.
W a v e H e ig h t (m )
5 .0 0
4 .0 0
3 .0 0
2 .0 0
1 .0 0
0 .0 0
Figure 15. Wave-height contours for Ponce Inlet example
54
Chapter 6 Example Applications
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