P. Wang et al. / Coastal Engineering 46 (2002) 175211
211
generation on a natural beach. Journal of Geophysical Research
Kraus, N.C., Gingerich, K.J., Rosati, J.D., 1988. Toward an im-
101, 12097 12110.
proved empirical formula for longshore sand transport. Proceed-
U.S. Army Corps of Engineers (USACE), 1984. Shore Protection
ings of 21st International Conference on Coastal Engineering.
Manual. Waterways Experiment Station, Coastal Engineering
ASCE Press, New York, pp. 1183 1196.
Research Center, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington,
Kraus, N.C., Lohrmann, A., Cabrera, R., 1994. New acoustic meter
DC.
for measuring 3D laboratory flows. Journal of Hydraulic Engi-
Van Rijn, L.C., 1993. Principles of Sediment Transport in Rivers,
neering 120 (3), 406 412.
Estuaries and Coastal Seas. Aqua Publications, The Nether-
Longuet-Higgins, M.S., 1970. Longshore currents generated by ob-
lands.
liquely incident sea waves, 1 and 2. Journal of Geophysical
Van Rijn, L.C., Havinga, F.J., 1995. Transport of fine sands by
Research 75, 6778 6810.
currents and waves: II. Journal of Waterways, Port, Coastal,
Miller, H.C., 1998. Comparison of storm longshore transport rates
and Ocean Engineering, ASCE 121, 123 133.
to predictions. Proceedings of 26th International Conference on
Visser, P.J., 1991. Laboratory measurements of uniform longshore
Coastal Engineering. ASCE Press, New York, pp. 2953 2967.
current. Coastal Engineering 15, 563 593.
Miller, H.C., 1999. Field measurements of longshore sediment
Wang, P., 1998. Longshore sediment flux in water column and
transport during storms. Coastal Engineering 36, 301 321.
across surf zone. Journal of Waterway Port, Coastal, and Ocean
Nielsen, P., 1979. Some basic concepts of wave sediment transport.
Engineering, ASCE 124 (3), 108 117.
Serial Paper 20, Institute of Hydrodynamic and Hydraulic En-
Wang, P., Kraus, N.C., 2002. Movable bed model investigation of
gineering, Technical University of Denmark, 160 pp.
groin notching. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, in
Nielsen, P., 1992. Coastal Bottom Boundary Layers and Sediment
press.
Transport. World Scientific, Singapore, 324 pp.
Wang, P., Kraus, N.C., Davis Jr., R.A., 1998. Total longshore sedi-
Osborne, P.D., Greenwood, B.G., 1992. Frequency-dependent
ment transport rate in the surf zone: field measurements and
cross-shore suspended sediment transport: 2. A barred shore-
empirical predictions. Journal of Coastal Research 14 (1),
face. Marine Geology 106, 25 51.
269 282.
Osborne, P.O., Greenwood, B., 1993. Sediment suspension under
Wang, P., Smith, E.R, Ebersole, B.A., 2002. Large-scale laboratory
waves and currents: time scales and vertical structures. Sedi-
measurements of longshore sediment transport under spilling
mentology 40, 599 622.
and plunging breakers. Journal of Coastal Research 18 (1),
Puelo, J.A., Beach, R.A., Holman, R.A., Allen, J.S., 2000. Swash
118 135.
zone sediment suspension and transport and the importance of
Welch, P.D., 1967. The use of fast Fourier transformation for the
bore-generated turbulence. Journal of Geophysical Research
estimation of power spectra: a method based on time averaging
105, 17021 17043.
over short, modified periodograms. IEEE Transactions on Audio
Rattanapitikon, W., Shibayama, T., 2000. Simple model for under-
and Electracoustics AU-15, 70 73.
tow profile. Coastal Engineering Journal, JSCE 42, 1 30.
Wikramanayake, P.N., Madsen, O.S., 1994a. Calculation of sus-
Smith, J.M., Larson, M., Kraus, N.C., 1993. Longshore current on a
pended sediment transport by combined wave-current flows.
barred beach: field measurements and calculations. Journal of
Contract Report DRP-94-7, U.S. Army Engineer Waterways
Geophysical Research 98, 22717 22731.
Experiment Station, Vicksburg, MS, 148 pp.
Svendsen, I.A., 1984. Mass flux and undertow in a surf zone. Coast-
Wikramanayake, P.N., Madsen, O.S., 1994b. Calculation of mov-
al Engineering 8, 303 330.
able bed friction factors. Contract Report DRP-94-5, U.S.
Svendsen, I.A., Lorenz, R.S., 1989. Velocities in combined under-
Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, Vicksburg, MS,
tow and longshore currents. Coastal Engineering 13, 55 79.
152 pp.
Thompson, E.F., Briggs, M.J., 1993. Surf Beat in Coastal Waters.
Zampol, J.A., Inman, D.L., 1989. Discrete measurement of sus-
Technical Report CERC-93-12, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers
pended sediment. In: Seymour, R.J. (Ed.), Nearshore Sediment
Waterways Experiment Station, Vicksburg, MS.
Transport. Plenum, New York, pp. 257 285.
Thornton, E.B., Guza, R.T., 1986. Surf zone longshore currents and
Zheng, J., Dean, R.G., 1997. Numerical models and intercomparisons
random waves: field data and models. Journal of Physical Oce-
of beach profile evolution. Coastal Engineering 30, 169 201.
anography 16, 1165 1178.
Thornton, E.B., Humiston, R.T., Birkemeier, W., 1996. Bar/trough