the offshore portion of the beach profile, which is consistent with the higher
degree of bathymetric variability in the bar region. Variability in the innersurf
zone was much less.
Mean longshore currents generally varied within plus or minus 20 percent of
the mean computed for all transects, except in the offshore tail of the distribution
and very near the shoreline where variability was much greater. Overall, the
degree of alongshore uniformity in hydrodynamic parameters was good, but
slightly less than that achieved for the concrete-beach experiments. This was
expected as a result of the mobility of the bed, irregularities in beach
morphology, and recognized imperfections in lateral boundary conditions.
Cross-shore Location (m)
Figure 85. Alongshore variation in significant wave height for the spilling-breaker
Longshore Sediment Transport Experiments