2

1.5

JONSWAP

1

0.5

Bretschneider

0

0

0.1

0.2

0.3

0.4

0.5

Frequency (Hz)

Figure B1. Comparison of Bretschneider and JONSWAP (γ = 3.3) spectra for a

sea state with *H*mo = 1 m, *T*p = 10 s

5 *f *-4

α *g*2

exp - γa ⋅ λ( *f *, *h*)

(B8)

4 *f*p

(2π) *f*

45

where λ(*f*,*h*) is a function that expresses the effect of finite water depth and is

given by:

-1

2ω2 R(ωh )

λ( *f *, *h*) = [R(ωh )]

-2

1 +

(B9)

sinh[2ω2 R(ωh )] 2ω2 R(ωh )

h

solution of the linear dispersion relation:

(B10)

h

B3

Appendix B Description of Ocean Wave Spectra

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